When I was in Udaipur, we spent most of our evenings in Chandpole which is the older part of town on the banks of The Pichola Lake and the City Palace. This is the Udaipur that they advertise to the world. It's colorful, bursting to the seams with teeny weeny alleys and houses which seems like it's made for miniature sized people. These alleyways have tinier stores selling lamps, books, silver jewelry, fake antiques, henna tattoos, gaily colored cotton apparel, leather goods, silk paintings, mosaics, the ever-present Rajasthani jutti (pointy shoes) and even lessons in Marwari/Mewari cuisine. Scattered among these are several eateries which vary from downright seedy (by which I mean stomach revolting) to the utter posh cafe like the Greek/French/German Bakeries. But we didn't go to any of these during first few days, NOPE...we were taken to the FC Restaurant (a.k.a Friends Club). Now do not go ahead and assume it was something like the palace in Yeh Jawaani Hai Deewani! This seedy corner in a very beautiful part of Udaipur's Old Town is neither a Club, nor should it be called a restaurant. I have mentioned seedy once already right, so am gonna call it shabby next, with shoddy service and crappy food (If it should be called food!). The only saving grace, it's right on the banks of the lake, which IS prime real estate, if you ask me and even better the view of the City Palace bathed in golden light (artificial, but very clever lighting). The staff comprises of one very harassed waiter who will inform you that half the stuff printed in the menu is unavailable and the bar offers only beer (The cheap variety) and really cheap rum! As if Udaipur is in Barbados or some other fancy tropical setting, Rum indeed! Am gonna go on a limb and say there is a cook in their teeny, weeny kitchen, coz the thought of that sad faced waiter managing the kitchen/bar and the till is just depressing. And to top it, the restaurant (lets call it that for now) has poor lighting and lives off the 'Golden Glow' from the palace on the opposite side of the lake (Scrooge much!). The reason am telling you this is coz none of our faces are visible in any of the pictures. The restaurant has a beautiful doorway though (Okay another plus point, I agree I can't count...but it's deceiving, okay), it's intricately carved wood which I'd bet my last penny is antique, but don't be fooled by this...It really is an awful place. Which says something about us for going back again! Not all us wanted to, but a group always has some penny-pinching dumbshit who won't even consider an alternative.
Speaking of the alternative, there are two places (for those on a budget) that is definitely not to be missed. First lets talk about
Ambrai in Ameth haveli, coz am just in love with this place (also proves I have brilliant taste coz I wanted to go there first, and the rest said no assuming it would tear a hole in their pockets). It's a Haveli Hotel (no surprises why I love those) again, on the banks of the lake, but even better their restaurant area not only shows you the
City Palace, but also the
Taj Lake Palace (remember
Octopussy,
if you don't know...go watch it now idiot!),
Gangaur Ghat which is right next to it and if you would just turn your neck all swan-like just a bit, you can see the
Oberoi Udaivilas (from
Yeh Jawaani hai deewani). Ambiance: beautiful subtle lighting, mood music and warm staff (as in plural). Food & Drink: Amazing, do try the
Dhungri Maas (comes with a lump of coal sizzling on top). I liked the Margarita (or maybe it tasted good coz I'd been craving some as mentioned in my previous post). Cost: I felt moderate (more along the lines of that bloody FC with better everything). The pool is to die for...it's right opposite the garden, but hidden in the shade of fragrant Frangipani trees (makes you itch to take a dip). Mind you, the restaurant here serves lunch only in peak season ( October-February) and anyway dinnertime is more exciting, so no bother.
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| View of Taj Lake Palace from Ambrai |
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| The City Palace |
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| Mohit, Shraddha and I in Ambrai |
Next place,
The Lake Picchola Hotel, which by the way is right next to that awful FC! This is another Haveli Hotel, on the banks of the lake, they even have a jetty and the wrought iron staircase has bougainvillea! As you enter, you find a cobblestone pathway with a beautiful garden and leafy palm fronds (mystifying...I felt it looked right out of an Arabian Palace) which leads to the concierge and restaurant. The chandeliers, lamps and mirrors in this place I tell you are just breathtakingly beautiful. My eyes popped at the opulence. Highly polished antique wood furniture and antique fans whirring over my head (woohoo, I was in heaven for a while). The staff, warm and welcoming. I've just told you about the ambiance. Food & Drink: Excellent, we loved the
Laal Maas and Ker Sangri. I had a Grey Goose Martini which was really good. Cost: Moderate and again that stupid FC cost almost the same. They do have a rooftop Pool and restaurant called '
Upre', but we didn't go there. This place has the most amazing washrooms, Shraddha and I just loved it, the mirrors, fancy antique-y faucets and all! By the way, this place has been around a really long time, it was built in 1559 A.D.
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| Laal Maas and ker Sangri |
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| Told you we fell in love with the washroom |
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| Yeah well, if you had to stay in KVK for 10 days you'd be excited too when you saw all those fancy stuff! |
And for those who want something cheaper still, you have the German Bakery or Cafe Edelweiss as it's known. Do not step into the French or Greek Bakeries, these places just have fancy names and nothing else to offer, though the cold coffee in the French Bakery is not all that bad (or that was just because Jahnavi and I were really tired and thirsty). The Greek bakery does not have a single Greek pastry to save their name, and I went in expecting to eat Baklava! Although the German Bakery doesn't have any German cuisine, you still can get a lovely apple pie, chocolate almond tart, decent sandwiches/ burgers and a lovely refreshing lemonade. There were several other things on display, but I didn't try them. This cafe is really a hole in the wall kind of place, tucked in between two shops selling artwork near the lake.
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| Chocolate almond tart, or whats left of it |
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| It's cute how they serve lemonade |
There is another place called '
Savage Garden' which I wanted to visit solely because they featured it on a TV show 'Highway on my plate with Rocky and Mayur' on NDTV Goodtimes. Rocky and Mayur had some nice things to say, but my friend Mohit said it was 'Bakwaas'! They serve Italian food with an Indian twist, if you're interested.
Then there is 'Millets of Mewar' for those of you who want or are interested in experimenting with vegan (I like to call it pretend vegan, they serve egg) food. We did go there, and I found it too Bleh! They cater mainly to the foreign clientele and am sure most of them go back disappointed. The food is ok, and for Gods sake do not try their juice, so not worth the grimace that they induce upon tasting! The ambiance is decent and quite interesting actually, but it is expensive.
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| See Shraddha's expression after a sip of that God-awful juice. |
Finally, for those with a sweet tooth like me, Udaipur is your haven. Really, from kulfi on the street, steaming Gulab Jamuns in tiny sweet stalls to Malai Ghevar in Jodhpur mishtan Bhandar. It's a sweet paradise. But for heaven's sake do not miss out on that Malai Ghevar, unfortunately I do not have a picture to show...we ate it up so fast. It's the devils incarnate itself and I better stop typing right now, or am gonna end up cleaning drool from my keyboard. Sigh! I am strengthening my resolve to go back sometime in the near future. After all, I still haven't seen the Lake Palace or Udaivilas or Sajjangarh Fort!
And the next time I'll tell you all about my experiments with that Chocolate Almond Tart from Udaipur.
Until then, Loads of love...
Chaitanya
